🔗 Share this article

Whenever compiling a list of London’s top restaurants, one might anticipate well-known high-end names. However, nestled prominently among these gastronomic giants is a modest salonu located in a distant corner of northern London.

A Shocking Honour

This small Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. This accolade has left the family completely astonished.

“I’m completely surprised,” says a family member, referring to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their humble restaurant earning such a high ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This small shop, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has kept much of its original feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the food, and this establishment definitely delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a tender consistency.

The meat is then added into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. Once the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled securely inside.

It is often enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than usual, imparting it a richer, more aromatic and not overly sweet flavour.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the summit of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for below £25, comparable meals at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

The Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is most important is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I am truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s success is set to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I think many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this gastronomic achievement.